THE HISTORY OF SOPRON AND THE CASTLE OF SOPRON
The one and a half kilometres wide strip of the Sopron Basin and the hills
and highlands around were populated from of old, due to their advantageous
sites. In the 4th-5th thousandth of years B.C. there already had been
populated areas around the Amber Road, the ambience of which became the
centre of the latter town (from the exhibited material of the shows "Landscapes
and Remnants of the Amber Road" edited by János Gömöri, and "Three Thousand
Years along the Amber Road", exposed in the Fabricius House).
The Amber Road
itself was never called this way, and the Romans had only to modernise an
already existing system of commercial roads. They did this by having covered
the dirt road by stone tiles, hence it became dustproof. In the Neolithic
the representatives of the Trans-danubian culture of line-ornaments left
prestigious records around the area. The population of the villages, the
Zheliz group, and the group of the Polish culture that produced handicrafts
and tools out of stones both contributed to these collections. Six thousand
years ago they were replaced by the group called Balaton Lasinja, who had
already been keeping animals.
The settlements of the Copper Age (2500-1900 B.C.) on the side of the Sopron
Basin (Nándormagaslat) were already fortified by ditches so as to provide
more protection for the inhabitants. This can be accounted for by the fact
that the area had already been in the crossing of commercial roads by this
time. Tools and jewels refer at the cultures that were settled here during
the Brazen Age. The first permanent settlement was established by Celtic
tribes, probably around the 8th-9th century B.C. This settlement was located
at the present Bécsi Hill and along the streamlet Ikva. This was proven
during the saving of findings and art relics that took place before the
housing estate Jereván was built. The site is mostly referred at as "Krataucker
locality". At the area of the urn-cemetery pieces of the late Brazen Age
handicrafts were found. These remnants form a part of the findings involved
in the production of tools.
According to our knowledge, the first real castles, fortifications of soil
appeared in the 6th-4th centuries B.C. (Iron Age). (These information
originate in Lajos Bella's findings that is marked with a monument under the
look-out tower Várhely.) The age is mentioned as that of the religion of
Hallstatt-age. The table of the Várhely (Burgstall, 483 m) was a fortified
settlement of Illyrians in the Hallstatt-age. Around 350 B.C. the area was
conquered by the Celts. The building of fortifications and ditches was
continued after the first appearance of the Romans; their final length
became about 2000 metres, their final area 38 acre. Similar fortifications
were built nearby at the site of the today's Károlymagaslat. By the 2nd
century B.C. these strongholds were also fixed by stonewalls from the
outside.
On the Bécsi Hill remnants of an other settlement were found. The ruins
originate in the La Téne-age, and the settlement probably had a fort as well.
From the 4th-5th centuries B.C. the findings of the Krataucker location
helped a lot to understand the customs, religious traditions of the age.
This religious belief contained similar elements to the Ethrusk-Greek system
of goddesses who wove and cut the thread of life. The representations of
these goddesses etc. were found on the findings of the location. On the
reconstruction illustrations the remnants of houses, storages and workshops
can be seen. The edifices of the 4th-5th century B.C. were dug into the
ground. They had a form similar to a hole or a trench, and were supported by
lines of pegs. The real improvement of the settlement followed as the Romans
reached the area around the streamlets Ikva and Rák. The Romans arrived
during the reign of Tiberius (14-37), and, according to Plinius senior,
first they established a settlement on the hills nearby under the name "Oppidum
Scarbantia Iulia". Later on, they also occupied the area of today's downtown.
The centre was where today the Main Square lies (Forum), around the Forum
houses of civis were built. The Amphitheatre on the Bécsi Hill (2nd century),
the cemetery (on the St. Michael Hill) and the pottery workshops (today's
Paprét) also belonged to the settlement. Parts of the Forum were the
Capitolium (the area of the City Hall), the Basilica, the place of
jurisdiction and trans. The Basilica was located where now the Pharmacy
House and the Gambrinus lies, up to the building of the Curia - its
North-Western approach was found in 2001, in a depth of 4,5 metres, while a
gas-line was laid down. After the identification the approach was re-buried.
The Basilica had two entrances, each with 3 stairs, according to the
prescriptions of the time. Considering the finding, the outline of the Forum
that was drawn in the TKM 455 is correct, with the amendment that between
the Curia and the Basilica there was no place left for a smaller street. One
entrance of the Basilica opened to the Forum, the other one to the Amber
Road. Next to this building stood the Curia, together with the ancient
Christian and the traditional Roman area of shrines and temples (the Roman
one was dedicated to Silvanus, the god of forests, gardens, peasant farms).
Both edifices stood at the place of the "Vasalóház" ("Ironing House").
The Roman Scarbantia was located on a crossing between the Amber Road (direction
North-South), and the road between Arrabona (Gyõr) and Vindobona (Vienna) (direction
East-West). By this time, the filling up of the boggy areas, the founding
using pegs and piles had already started between the streamlets Ikva and
Rák. The Romans, who also brought their art and culture, did not establish a
military base, but created a mainly civic town. The settled were mostly
merchants and veterans. The buildings on the boggy areas were founded onto
piles and pegs made of wood. This form of building is still very influential
onto the terra-base of Sopron's downtown, and causes the high groundwater;
the rotting of the wooden piles that cannot access air causes the weakening
of bases and founds. These processes caused some inconveniencies and
tragedies in the past.
That is why, even with the technology of todays, it
is difficult to provide such bases to the preservation of old buildings,
which would meet the overall static requirements. This phenomenon is also
responsible for the fact that the bases of the Curia (the parts exhibited)
had to be brought up to a higher level.
During the reign of Emperor Vespasianus (69-79 AD) the city becomes a
municipium (a city that has an own constitution, and whose inhabitants had
all the rights of the Roman civis): Municipium Flavium Augustum. The ruins
of 73 villas were found nearby, the remnants of those villa-farmlands, which
were involved in the cultivation of wine grapes, in the handicrafts'
production, and commerce. The Roman Age did not only bring the patrician
architecture with herself, but the mass-produced articles also appeared,
forcing both Romans and Romanised to apply a similar production system. The
commerce of amber-stone became increasingly important in the 1st-2nd century.
At this time did the artistically chiselled amber-stones appear as
commercial objects. At first, the picture of the city was of one loosely
built; it was probably composed of a main road crossing the area diagonally
and a number of streets perpendicular to this. The townscape became planned
only around 50 A.D. (at the time of Vespasianus).
Before this planning, however, came the building of the Roman castle. It had
a form of an ellipse, and was 404 x 250 metres wide. The shape of
Scarbantia's walls also refer to the fact that the castle, built before 380,
was to protect the inhabitants rather than the Empire. The gates of the
castle were at the sites where now the Elõkapu (Front gate) and Hátsókapu (Back
gate) are located. The protection against the Marcomann tribes was
reinforced by the building of 27 towers along the castle walls. The main
axis of the ellipse corresponded to the direction of the Amber Road.
Afterwards, the downtown's streets took up the form in which they are
visible today. The excavations in the Városház street proved, that, by the
building of the castle wall, a new, artificial border line was created,
which sometimes separated the parts of already existing houses (the parts
outside the wall were destroyed).
The castle had a triple-structured wall (this was not the same as the
multiple system of walls that was established in the Middle Age under the
mayoralty of Kristóf Lackner, but the Roman castle that was built around the
downtown, and it's later system of walls!). This was made of big
quadric-stones on the outside, small quadric-stones on the inside, and grout
mixed with broken stones in between.
At the entrance and exit of the main
road the road grew more narrow - from 4.8 metres to 3 metres - and passed
between two towers, where the castle gates provided protection. On the
castle wall there were approximately 32-35 towers placed at even distances
from each other. Each of them were solid up to the first floor, with a 4x8
ms room on their upper floor so as to provide enough space for the garrison
and its equipment. It is very probable, that at the time of the building of
the castle the formation of another city-core had already started. This was
located around the area of the St. Michael church, where at that time there
was a Roman cemetery. According to the enclosed etching, in the 4th century
there was an old Christian parish in the city Scarbantia, moreover, it was
an episcopate. Christianity in this sight had also "incultured" the former
Roman-aged status and here was built one of the first churches of "villa
Scrabantiae" as well.
The church functioned as a site of catafalques, too,
and the deceased were buried in the Roman-aged cemetery. The St. Michael and
the Dorfmeister street provided a link through the Front Gate between the
two parts of the city.
The remnants of the early tribal migrations are recognisable here as well,
especially if the neighbouring settlements and villages are included as well.
The first phase of this migration was marked by the Germanic Quads, which
was called the Foederati age (375-433). The second phase is the age of the
Huns (especially remarkable in Eastern Pannonia). This period was followed
by that of the Eastern Goths (455-471). As fourth the age of the "Sveb
heruls" is mentioned, and lastly the Lombard age followed (526-586).
Afterwards, when the Avars forged ahead (568), the castle became uninhabited.
There is an account about Christians escaping even before, but e.g. some of
the Romanised inhabitants were still living here sparsely up until 568. The
castle then became a ruin. At the former city's site, a grassland was grown,
which, supported by regular wards, was to defend the borders. The place had
lost her significance, because there was neither in the age of the
migrations nor later a border-line nearby.
The significance of the area was
not improved after the Francs' offensive either, wherein Charles the Great
stretched his Reign's borders to the Rába. Hence, all territories lying to
the North and West of the Rába, became those of the Francs. Because of the
continuous attacks of Franc and Bulgarian tribes, the Avar empire, that was
weakened from the inside as well, was bound to collapse. About this time the
Francs' baptism took place as well, and a sort of feudal system appeared in
their society. The new fortresses so as to accommodate border guards were
built at this time. An important fund of this time is the so-called Cunpald
chalice, which was found where now the Sugar Factory of Petõháza is located.
After the Hungarian Conquest (about 900), the new county-system was
established in the area. In county Sopron chief Súr settled. At this time
the Roman walls were still 5-6 metres high. Súr was the ancestor of the
medieval stem called Osl (Osli), the chiefs of which gave names to lots of
settlements around. The Empire of Hungarians reached the river Enns. This is
the time of the "roams", which usually started out from Western Hungary. The
silver coins that appeared after the taxation of Italian and Western areas,
were found here as well. After the Hungarian conquest, considering the
continuous offensives of Barbarian tribes, in order to protect the roads and
forego the offences, King Stephen established a border fortress on the ruins
of the former Scarbantia: Sopron. The King re-established the border line at
the Leitha as well.
At King Stephen's time this was rather a re-organised
fortress exactly on the line of the Roman castle, than a re-built (or newly
built) fort. The coffered structure of the fortress was made of wooden piles
and adobe, that was placed onto the restored Roman ruins. An enormous fire
had ruined the castle between the years 1030 and 1074: the wooden structures
providing the protection of archers and catapults must have reached the
lower parts of the walls, where the wooden piles stood. This caused the loam
to burn into a reddish colour, with the charred remnants of the piles inside.
The lord's castle had two gates, on the sites of the Elõkapu (Front gate)
and Hátsókapu (Back gate). The Front Gate was built just a few metres away
from the former Northern Gate of Scarbantia. The Southern Gate of Scarbantia
was walled in, and a new gate was opened on the Eastern wall instead. They
still could break out of the castle through the old gate, however; this is
implied by one of the certificates of Bela the 4th in 1242; a "stratagem"
like this is mentioned in it. They started the building next to the Roman
castle walls; thus the ellipse-shaped streets were formed (St. George and
Templom street). In the focuses of the ellipse two squares were established
(Main square - Forum, and St. Ursula square - Salt market).
The latter
received its name from the royal salt-depository and distributor. Later the
"green stripes" in between the streets were halved and built in; thus the
Kolostor street between the Templom and Új street was formed. The houses of
this street are parts of the downtown now, at that time they were protected
by the castle wall. The early establishment of the castle can be proven by
the fact that King Clemens had already pointed out some routs for the
crusaders of Gottfried Bouillon in order to let them cross the castle safely.
In the certificate "castellum Cyperon" (Sopron) is marked, hence we could
suppose that the castle was already a significant one.
The castle itself was a so-called "reeves' castle" (the name Sopron itself
probably comes from the first reeve of the town, Suprun), and was attended
by the villages nearby. This is referred at by the names of the neighbouring
villages. The ecclesiastic remnants of the city also give some hints.
According to these, the settlements on the Bécsi hill were to watch over the
Roman road that had still been used at this time. The earliest churches of
the settlement were also built in this area: the churches of St. John and St.
Michael and the chapel of St. Jacob. After the re-capturing of the castle,
in 1247 Béla the 4th made the Equestrian Order of St. John settle here so as
to protect the town from the side of the Bécsi gate. The church of the Great
Notre-Dame, mentioned together with the St. Michael church in 1278, was also
located outside the walls, in front of the Front gate, on the place of the
Mary-pillar of today. The church was demolished in the year 1533 - regarding
military, strategic opinions. Before, the church was the site of the Sopron
episcopate. Inside the walls there was a church named after St. George, this
is represented by a Christ-torso in the exhibition presenting the town's
history. (In the medieval Sopron there were 12 churches.) In 1162 Farkas,
serviens of the castle Sopron is mentioned, in 1257 Béla the 4th is speaking
about a territory named Harka which belongs to the castle of Sopron, in 1265
the castellan of the royal castle is called Reeve Peter.
The castle (the churches of which already exist) standing on the border-line
is several times under the attack of Ottokar the 2nd; between 1253-1278 is
occupied and devastated several times. In order to ensure the fidelity of
the town, the troops of Ottokar take the children of several families as
hostages. Still, in 1277 Sopron opens up her gates to the King Ladislaus the
4th (Kun). To acknowledge the loyalty of the city, to provide further
protection for the inhabitants and to raise the (lately lessened) number of
inhabitants, the king joins the rest of the royal archers (lõvérek,
sagittarii) to the city. (The attributive "Civitas Fidelissima" - received
by Sopron in 1921- and the royal letter will be referred at in the caption
dealing with the plebiscite.)
The royal castle is raised to be a free royal
city in 1277, also by Ladislaus the 4th. This is the time, when the second,
outer system of walls is raised around the castle. The privileges of Sopron
(formerly given by Béla the 4th and Stephen the 5th) are reinforced: the
half of the tollage at the lake Fertõ is to remain for them, so as to enable
the proper maintenance of the gates and towers of the castle. The lands of
the royal courts men were also to belong to Sopron. The inhabitants of
Sopron had no longer to seek the royal reeve in cases of jurisdiction; their
own judges were now entitled to judge cases of greater crimes as well, and
the decima (tax of 1/20th) of the town could be used for the maintenance of
the walls. The citizens may also build towers for the protection of the
city.
It is also Ladislaus the 4th, who bans in 1283 the settlement outside the
walls, and orders the ones that are already settled that they should move
into the city (intra muros). Otherwise, they would lose their estates. This
decree marks the appearance of new (probably German) settlers in the area,
and the establishment of the Újteleki suburb outside the walls. Between 1277
and 1360, the former royal limen-fortress became a flourishing Free Royal
Town, a merchant-town, in which the German inhabitants gradually became a
majority. In the May of 1339 Charles the 1st supports the building of the
town's fortifications by giving the half of the tollage collected on the
Lake Fertõ to the citizens. The expenses of the regular maintenance of the
castle was a heavy burden on the citizens of Sopron, so they apply for
allowances of taxation at the king. King Sigismund orders the bishop of Gyõr,
John, to give the regular decima (tax of 1/20th) to the city in order to
provide financial support for the maintenance of the castle walls. The same
year, in August, a decree is produced, according to which the town gets to
receive 200 Forints out of the 1/30th-tax of Sopron, also to help the
maintenance of the walls and the trenches.
Sopron is one of the seven Royal Free Towns, the city's chancellery and
archives are established. In 1440 the widow of King Albert, Elizabeth runs
for Sopron with her baby son, Ladislaus the 5th, and with her courts men.
The next year the town is forfeited to the German King Friedrich III, in
spite of the protestation of the league of Free Royal Towns, to which Sopron
also belonged. The German king, Friedrich IV, orders the citizens of Sopron
in 1447 to end up the building of the balustrade (hiernweer) at the lower
wall-strait (zwinger). After 1379 the area which laid outside the downtown
but inside the second system of castle walls was divided into four quarters
(viertel= quarter, the four suburbs of today). These quarters were divided
into four smaller districts as well. The Outer Committee, a college of the
town that had 24 members, was thus composed of 8 citizens of the downtown,
and 4x4=16 citizens from each of the suburban districts. By this time, the
population of the town was probably around 2100-2300 people, but by 1427 the
number of inhabitants rose significantly, up to 4000.
The first account for the number of houses was dated in 1379. The guilds
first appeared in 1447, which (especially in the early times) did not only
mean defending the interests of the trade or representation, but also a
guarantee of products and the financial-human resources in order to support
the impoverished members of the groups. Interestingly, there were so-called
"religious guilds" as well, the purpose of which was purely to keep their
religious life. The oldest of these is the Company of St. George, which all
priests and city councillors were bound to enter, so that the company held
both the profane and religious executive power up to the beginning of the
1550s. In the middle of the 16th century, the walls of the castle are
crowned by balustrades. During the reign of King Matthew Corvin the walls of
the castle are already getting ruinous.
In 1463 he manages to re-exchange
the town, and a year later orders the inhabitants to amend the ruinous walls,
and urges the nobility to help them with their work. In 1469 King Matthew
lets the town have 100 Forints yearly out of the Crown toll of Sopron, so as
to help the building of castle walls and towers.
In a decree dated in 1477, Buda, he lets the City Council know that he
ordered the head of his troops which are staying near Sopron to amend and
fortify the castle of the town. The troops quartered in the town must have
been violent, because the king orders them away, and only lets a few
pedestrian troops stay, in order to work on the fortifications of the castle.
The castle and the town plays a very important role during Matthew's war
against the German Kaiser, and gets ruined during this period. To re-build
the ruined parts, in 1483 a decree is born, according to which the town can
keep 300 Forints of the yearly toll ten years long, and 200 Forints out of
the 1/30th-tax 16 years long. King Ulaslo the 2nd agrees in 1496, that the
town may use the 1/30th -tax for the amendment of the walls two years long,
still, around 1500 Sopron asks him to free the city of the tolls, because no
walls protect the town anymore, and the only tower above the gate is
completely ruined as well (omnis desolata est).
The re-edification of the castle must have failed, or the walls got hurt
again; in 1507 Ulaslo sends another decree saying, that the city of Sopron
should re-build her fortifications. To enable this, he frees the town of all
exceptional taxes 3 years long, and also agrees, that during this time they
may use the taxes received from the neighbouring villages for this purpose
as well. This decree is prolonged in 1510, and in 1515, in a letter dated in
the town of Tata, he declares, that all Jews and their principals are to
help with the amendments of the walls.
They also must maintain the houses in
a very good state, otherwise the City Council can force them to do so. In
this same year the king - having said that he had seen the destruction of
Sopron - frees all citizens of the 1/30th-taxes, who are willing to deliver
the building material in order to re-build their houses - this also concerns
the serfs and their personalties (Házi, Archives. I, 6, 232, 250, 322, 333).
Louis the 2nd also frees the town of the 500 Forints-exceptional tax in
1525, so that the castle walls may be amended. These works must have
finished around the end of 1526, because the King lets János Dóczi, royal
treasurer, the authorities of the Comity Sopron, and the royal
tax-collectors know, that the town is free of all tolls and taxes for one
more year, to end up the strengthening of the castle walls properly.
However, after the reign of King Matthew Corvin the military significance of
the castle soon becomes lost. The triple castle walls, first depicted on the
map of 1597, are the results of hundreds of years' development. At the same
time, the middle wall is filled up with soil (the so-called tower gardens),
that is important in the protection of the castle from the outer offensive,
but also, the canons of the defence could also be placed onto them.
The big
roundel was finished in 1631; a similar tower was built behind the Ursula
convent. In 1641 a five-angled, Italian style tower was built at the
South-Western corner of the castle. As the fire-arms appeared, the former
walls, designed to the old military equipments (archers, etc.) provided no
further protection. Thus the holes of the old walls were filled in,
moreover, an approximately 1 metre high brick wall was built onto them.
Loopholes were cut into the walls, enabling the soldiers to use the new
military technologies (filling the arms between the loopholes, and firing
them through the holes). The gates were built over, into the entrance dams
pitfalls were dug. The castle trench was filled with the water of the Rák
Brooklet.
In 1524 the reformation appears in Sopron, at first in the country. In spite
of the auto-da-fe's, the majority of the citizens soon convert to
Lutheranism. In 1526 the Jews are expelled of the city. In 1529 the Turks
occupy and ravage the suburbs. The town still has to resign of the building
of an up-to-date defence system. As the offensive fire-arms became more and
more effective, and their range also rose, the neighbouring heights
(especially the St. Michael hill) were of great disadvantage for the city.
Involving the St. Michael hill in the defence system, however, would have
meant such expenses for the constantly indebted Habsburg-emperors, that they
could not have risked the investment. Thus the Military Council of Vienna,
when building the Western defence system of castles, did not update the
castle of Sopron.
Before the Eastern of 1617 the Chronicle writes several times about
restoration of walls, pre-eminently at the gates (Gazda street - formerly
Wieden street, the old St. Michael cemetery, and at all suburban gates). In
the famously great year of vinery the tower next to the Back-gate
(Hátsókapu) is built, of which unfortunately nothing has remained. In 1627
the trenches, including the long trench, are cleaned again. Next to the
Back-gate some towers are built, and the building of the outer castle wall,
which had started in 1617, finally comes to an end. Some, considering the
early mentioning of the various gates of the town in the decrees
(Fisher-gate 1432, St. Michael-gate 1504, Windmill-gate 1523, Newlot-gate
1524, St. Leonard-gate 1475, and Hungarian-gate 1535), mistakenly think that
there should have been some early walls.
However, the chronicle states
clearly, that the outer walls next to the gates were first established by
Lackner, in 1617. So, what kind of walls could have stood here before 1617,
if they have been only built after? The right interpretation of the term
"gate" must therefore have been "bar", "crossing gates". It should have been
a gate-like cut-off of the road, which did not necessarily mean adjoint
castle walls. The walls could have been substituted by simple fences. After
the building of the castle wall around the downtown was finished, it took a
longer time for the triple system of walls with all the towers to develop,
and for other settlements (quarters) outside the trenches to build fences
made of stones around themselves. These walls or fences, however, did not
provide any protection in case of serious attacks.
By the end of the fifteenth century the more or less rectangular area of the
castle was surrounded by high, protecting walls. In front of the castle
walls there was an approximately 60 metres wide free space, which still can
be detected if one looks at the facades of the houses on the Várkerület,
Széchenyi square, Petõfi square, Ógabona square, and the Várkerület again.
This line of houses follows the line of the slightly broken line of the
castle walls. Most of the outer walls and towers are still visible. The area
according to limits of the effective archery (according to Jenõ Gyalókai
this is 60 m) was left blank, and, to prevent the foes from climbing onto
the walls, circular tower were built in front of the walls. Their location
enabled the soldiers to fire in almost all directions. If we take a look at
the wall that can be seen today, the one that protected the downtown, it is
clear that this provided the most of the protection of Sopron.
Accordingly, in the triple system of walls this line was most fortified with
densely placed, circular towers. The inner wall, facing the wall-straits
inside the middle walls, formed the most inner circle of the system. This
wall - which even contains walls of existing houses, sometimes re-built with
the facades of those - also contains loopholes and ramps, which all refer to
the original purpose of it. So we can find in the Storno-house (Main sq. 8)
the ogived door-frame of a medieval ramp, or a gothic door-frame in the
Lackner house (Main sq. 7) In the St. George street 19, above the line of
the wall-strait, the ruinous medieval wall still rises up to a height of
about 5 metres. In its upper part, three loopholes can be seen, the size of
which equals to the size of those in the main wall. Not only
pedestrian-approaches were leading to the wall-strait that rose 3 metres
high above the inner area of the town, but also ramps for carriages. In the
courtyard of the house Nr. 1 in the St George street, a medieval gate-frame
can be seen, ending in segmented arches , the width of which was about 2,40
metres. The inner wall of the triple wall-system can be detected securely:
in the courtyards and ends of the houses Nr. 8, 7, 6 of the Main Sq., Nr. 3,
2, 1 of the Orsolya sq, Nr. 19, 17, 15 of the St. George street At the ends
of the lots the area are called the "tower gardens". The houses Nr. 2, 4,
16, 18, 22 of the Templom street, Nr. 13, 9, 7, 5 of the St George street
probably contain such walls.
The inner walls could have been 5-6 metres higher than those of the
wall-straits, and were about 60-100 centimetres deep. The equal size of the
towers in the middle line of walls (5, 20 metres inner diameter), and their
even distribution along the walls (about 30 metres distance between the
axles) are to prove, that the whole protection area was built at the same
time. The depth of the main walls above the wall-straits, at the loopholes
is about 60-70 centimetres. The distances between the axles of the loopholes
lie between 2,40 and 2,80 metres, thus forming a regular line. The loophole
is located in the plane of the wall that is facing the trench. It is 8
centimetres wide and 65 centimetres high. Towards the inside it is widening
to 65-70 centimetres, and is formed with a cone-lining which ends in a
segmented arch. In most cases it is coped over with bricks. The circular
towers still exist, though some only partially, in the houses Nr. 7, 5 of
the Main sq., Nr. 2, 8, 16 of the Templom street, Nr. 2 of the Színház
street, Nr. 3, 2 of the Orsolya sq, Nr. 19, 15, 9, 3 of the St. George
street, and in the house Nr. 4 of the Városház street. Watching from the
site of the former castle trench, the circular towers next to the houses Nr.
110, 102 and 98 of the Várkerület, and in the courtyards of the houses Nr.
10 of the Várkerület, Nr. 11, 15, 19, 25 and 31 of the Színház street still
can be seen. The depth of the walls of the towers above, which were
providing protection from the sides and at the corners, equals to that of
the main walls.
The size of its loopholes cannot be determined, since none
of them has remained intact. Still we can appoint that the towers had 3
loopholes each, the middle one always facing forwards, the ones at the sides
facing the castle walls.
According to the map drawn in 1597 the towers followed each other keeping a
distance of 25 metres, and at the houses Nr. 17 - 18 of the Széchenyi square
there were two towers standing, with 12-13 metres of axle distance between
them. The remnants of one of these towers could be the ruin that was found
in 2001, when the basement of the Congress Centre was laid down. The
location of these two towers could possibly have been an arrangement for the
protection of the gates. The baroque state of the Front gate (Elõkapu) still
bears the moralities of the medieval structure of the castle. This state is
conserved by a drawing that was made before 1754 by Joannes Georgius Trost
Maurermeister, in order to fix a place for the chapel and statue of St. John
of Nipomo that was to be built (original: Sopron, Common Archives). The
castle, besides the small towers and the bigger "roundels", that also
allowed the positioning of fire-arms, also had a tower of the old Italian
system. This was the tower at the South-Western corner of the castle, with
one of its elevations facing the Petõfi square, with the other facing the
Széchenyi square. The tower was standing out with about 6 metres in front of
the adjoint walls' plane, so that these walls became easy to protect. This
"old Italian" tower, together with the roundel, was built surprisingly late,
after 1597. The other roundel was built somewhat before - in the middle of
the seventeenth century - it has a structure that usually was used in the
earlier towers. In the year 1676 an enormous conflagration is destroying the
downtown of Sopron. Most of the houses, by this time possessed by the
nobility who start to seek protection inside the walls, get hurt some way.
The vaulting tract of the outer castle, which had remained in a few metres'
length in the garden of the Museum Ferenc Liszt, was built around 1640. The
Bécsi- (Viennese) -gate (also called Szélmalom, i.e. Windmill gate), that
lies in the axis of the Bécsi Road, is the point where the line of the outer
castle wall breaks. The little tower standing next to the gate is quite
ruinous. If one follows the direction of the wall to the South-west, can
determine the place of the former dormitory of the Jesuits - the building
still exists, however, nowadays it is used as an agricultural building. Here
the outer wall was fortified by a smaller tower as well; this was demolished
in the last century, when the building of the road took place. An other
little tower can, however, still be seen between the Lackner street and the
Ikva Brooklet, on the site where the walls followed the direction of the
Patak street. Forming the inner lines of the Ferenczi János street and the
Újteleki street, the Volán coach terminal, the Várfal street and the Fehér
Dániel street, the walls and two little roundels are still visible.
The direction of the wall heading south broke at the Museum, and formerly it
ran along the line of the Deák square. The next line, which breaks about the
site of the hospital, heads upwards, towards the Kõfaragó square. From here,
it becomes a division line between the Wooden Market (Fapiac) and the lots
of the Pócsi street, and joins the walls of the catholic cemetery. Two
little towers are still standing along this line. The outer walls were
joining beset areas, crofts. Such was the croft of the Jesuits' dormitory
next to the Bécsi-gate around 1660, and such was the orchard and vegetable
garden of the Jesuits (later on the Franciscans possessed them) around 1700
next to the János Ferenczy street.
The depiction of these gardens is shown on the gravure of Michel Zakariás
made in 1700, which shows the city from a bird-sight. In the legend of the
picture the Bécsi- (Viennese-) gate is called Windmühltor, the one between
the two towers Bdechthurm. To the wall, which girdled around the downtown,
no houses were built from the outside at this time. In addition to the outer
walls described above, there is an other outer wall capturing a smaller
area, the remnants of which can be seen and followed up at the shores of the
Ikva, and at the site of the Paprét that is closer to the downtown. There is
a small tower remained in the wall behind the Tûzoltó-tower as well. At the
end of the 17th century, when the Ottomans leave the country, one of the
main commercial roads (trade of horses and cattle) crosses Sopron. At the
beginning of the 18th century the town belongs to the ten best of Hungary.
The trade of typography, the moulding of canons and church bells, the
traditional blue-painting appears. The castle trenches are filled with
ground; little vegetable-gardens develop instead. At this time the
development of the Várkerület (Castle round) also finishes. In 1753 is the
first colliery of the country is discovered, and it also starts functioning,
thanks to the first steam-driven conveyor of the country. After 1775 the
right of citizenship can also be possessed by inhabitants who don't own a
house. After 1786 Sopron gradually becomes a small town, in spite of the
fact that it's still the capital of the county. The number of the
inhabitants is more than 11000 by this time.
In 1835 István Széchenyi becomes a honorary citizen of the town, he
establishes a steam-driven mill in 1842, and saving banks with the help of
the German merchants. After 1840 the formerly expelled Jews can return into
the town. By this time, outside of the quarters of the suburbs (which by
this time had became a sort of "outer downtown"), moreover, outside the
Lackner walls, another building of houses is started. These areas are called
Front-town (Vorstadt), in order to distinguish them from the quarters inside
the outer walls. In the freedom-fight of 1848 the town does not play a
significant role, in the same year Sopron is lodged by the troops of
Windischgrätz, and, after the freedom-fight is beaten down, the town becomes
the centre of the Trans-danubian District (the financial, military and
police matters of 9 former counties are managed from here). In 1850 the City
Council is abolished, of the villages around only Brennberg belongs to
Sopron in the future. The railway between Sopron and Nagykanizsa is
established; however, the city would not lie on the railway line connecting
Budapest and Vienna. The gas-works start to function. After the
establishment of the Austro-Hu nagrian empire Sopron re-gains her position
as county capital. At the end of the century the capitalistic development of
the town starts inside the Monarchy, which is interrupted by the First World
War and the proclamation of the Republic of Councils. In 1919, by the Treaty
of Saint-Germaine, a significant portion of Western Hungary is given to
Austria.
When the plebiscite of the 14th December 1921 takes place (antedated by the
battle of Ágfalva), Sopron and the area around stays Hungarian. After this
plebistice the town receives the prestigious title "Civitas Fidelissima"
(the most faithful town). Some say, that this name already was mentioned in
the decree of Ladislaus (Kun) the 4th, in 1277, and the title of 1921 is
only a renewal of the former one, but the mentioned medieval decree does not
contain information referring to the term "Civitas Fidelissima". The decree
mentions faithfulness twice: once when speaking about the faithful citizens
of Sopron who present themselves (fideles nostri ciues de Supronio), and the
second time, when he writes about the citizens who proved their loyalty to
the king by sacrificing their children in hostage (eorum ciuium gratam
fidelitatem). In the inter-war years the town lies on the border, which
causes severe damages in the economy. This the town tries to balance by
developing the textile-industry and tourism. On the 19th March 1944 Sopron
is also lodged by the German troops. Near New Year's Day the city had three
heavy bombardments to suffer. On the 31st of March the Soviets reached
Sopron.
During the after-war years most of the German-speaking population is
evacuated. In 1950 Sopron loses her rank of a County Capital. During the
socialism the town lays in the so-called "border-line", and can only be
visited with special permissions. In the course of the years, its industry
gets forfeited, partly consciously, partly because of the town's vague
accessibility, and becomes rather culture-orientated. Since Sopron lays in
the "border-line", and the Iron Curtain is so much nearby, the harassments
of visitors on the trains, public roads, etc. are regular. The mines around
the area are cleaned up relatively soon after, but the "up-to-date" system
of barbed wire, reacting by touch, runs kilometres long inside and alongside
the border. The town tries to defend herself, as she can: during the Festive
Days of Sopron her gates get to be somewhat wider opened, and she really can
show her hidden beauties to the visitors.
On the 19th August 1989 in Fertõrákos the so-called Paneuropean Picnic was
held, when the barbed wire of the Iron curtain first was cut. Hundreds of
East-Germans flew through the border to Austria. In the decade after the
changes the town became that of the guest-workers and trading. The
shopping-tourism became very significant, onto which phenomenon the whole
system of shops and shopping-centres was built. The significance of the
shopping-tourism will only lessen around the millennium, but even then, it
would still remain very important in the life of the town.
The city would like to become a site of the high quality tourism,
entertainment, vintners, and conferences.
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